Amp crack

This review page is supported in part by the sponsors whose ad banners are displayed below. Gone are the Dynaco days when teenage boys built kit amps in their garages or basements. Today they are more likely to wave wands at flat-screen TVs from the overfed comfort of their couches.

We have become alienated from the means of musical production. Bottlehead Corporation to the rescue. Are you uncomfortable with the idea of low-paid Chinese labour? Look no further than your own— unpaid —labour. No longer content to purchase my kit primarily from the not so dark satanic mills of Shenzen, in December I picked up the phone and dialled Bainbridge Island, Washington state.

There the friendly folks of Bottlehead hang their hats. The distortion will be in the percentages but mostly for the lows where it doesn't degrade sound that much. See it as the Pass ACA for tube amp builders, you only have to be much more cautious because of the high internal voltages when tinkering with it.

The monotonically decreasing harmonic distortion ie. Now I better understand why. Here you go: View attachment Joined Nov 29, Messages Likes 1, Whenever someone says that 2nd order harmonic distortion isn't a fidelity problem, I sense the anguished screams of Alex Voishvillo in the distance Joined Apr 26, Messages 1, Likes 2, This is the polar opposite of the THX current feedback amps.

It's literally supposed to be a bit distorted. That mains hum if I had to guess is actually heater to cathode leakage current, which can happen if the heaters are AC and aren't floated significantly above ground. I should add A fun review for sure. The fun distortion is the whole point. Not my cup of tea but cool because it works as intended. Reference grade it is not. Lot of old tube gear sounded pleasant as it distorted like mad For those It would be better if there isn't imbalance between the channels and if there isn't the mains noises.

Joined Aug 30, Messages 1, Likes 2, The manual is available as a single time download upon purchase of a kit, and as such will not be shared here. I will try to walk the line between providing detailed information with good pictures, and not sharing too many specifics. I love DIY, and recently when a friend mentioned they were interested in the Crack, but lacking the skills and tools to build it, I happily volunteered. So what follows is tips from the building of their Crack version 1.

Knowing it was going to be documented, and since it is for a friend, I completed it in a rather neater manner than my own. He says. The manual is very informative and you will actually learn many good practices and procedures by carefully abiding by what it tells you to do. Make no mistake, the voltages in a tube amp can be dangerous, but the instructions explain fully how to build and test safely. Read carefully. Follow the instructions and warnings. Take your time. Double check everything as you go.

Experience is the process of gaining knowledge or skill from doing. Clearly, this is intended to convince you to DIY.

The kit is shipped completely unassembled, ensconced in packing peanuts in a small cardboard box. Inside you will find four perfectly cut, unfinished wooden boards and an unfinished metal plate with all the necessary cut-outs for the top.

The wooden bases are made by a local woodworking shop that has been providing them for about 20 years. Being in the pacific northwest, alder is one of the few commercial hardwoods cut locally. The process of creating the wooden parts is complicated and extensive. It ensures a perfectly cut and finished end product. Fight the urge to just launch right in and start assembly.

While you can leave the wood and plate unfinished, the best-looking result will come from properly finishing the surfaces FIRST. Luckily it will take a few weeks for the kit to arrive after ordering it. This gives you plenty of time to google pictures, and decide what looks best to you. Does the retro design inspire thoughts of cream and teal antique automotive styling?

Perhaps a dark stain and hammered metallic finish to enhance the steampunk sensibilities? Design it to best fit your tastes. Clean the surface of the top aluminum chassis plate and steel end bell with soap and water or isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

Ensure there is no residue left behind to interfere with the paint. The finish on the plate and bell is sufficient for adhesion, so no sanding is required. The manual states that the end bell will rust if not treated with paint or a clear coat. Of note, you can sand the top plate with a random orbital sander and get an interesting brushed finish. I recommend sanding the bottom of the plate after painting to make sure it is clean and ready to act as a ground for the electronics.

Follow the directions on the can, but several light coats and at minimum several days a week or two is better of drying and hardening time pays off dividends. For the kit in the pictures, I had actually painted the top months before starting assembly. Clearly most folks will not want to wait that long, but as much patience as you can muster is recommended. I recently had the chance to chat with the shop responsible for providing the wooden case parts for Bottlehead.

Then flip them over and apply some wood glue to the inside, letting it soak in just a bit before folding it into a box and taping up the last joint. Do this on a flat surface and make sure that it sits as level as possible. Once the glue is dry, I sand off any residue. A sheet of fine sandpaper laid flat I contact cement it to a flat piece of scrap works well. Plan on doing fine sanding cleanup to ease the sharp edges before any finish goes on.

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